3D Printing

I've had a fun few days designing this in OpenSCAD. My elementary and high school trigonometry is definitely coming back to me!

Downloaded from https://www.printables.com/model/437536-floating-plastic-ducks.

Right, so at a glance alot of the posts here are for FDM printing, and while I love my Ender 3 and have no problems with it (anymore...) I really want to get into resin printing. I have a 2 year old Elegoo Mars 2 Mono that I've used a handful of times, because each time I try to print a test model instead of something that looks like a chess piece, all I get is a circle of solid resin about the thickness of a US quarter. I'm kinda discouraged by this, since I know plenty of people get into resin printing and love the level of detail they can get on it. Yes, I know I can get similar details with FDM, and sometimes I do, but I want to expand my printing horizons as well. I've tried printing at different ambient temperatures, reslicing the model with different slicers, and warming the resin before use, but I can't seem to get more then a disk from my printer. Does anyone have some advice or insight into this issue?

Should i worry? Any suggestions for a fix? Didnt find anything because i dont know what search terms to use...

Edit: Thanks for your responses. I talked to my brother, he told me the retraction speed was too slow (25mm/s), i changed it to 40mm/s and realized i activated the wrong printer profile. Silly me. Ill do a test print now. Ill look into your suggestions if this wont help.

I created a Lemmy logo keychain for everyone to enjoy!

Prusa MINI is getting Input Shaper and Pressure Advance! No idea when it's gonna be released as a stable version, but still quite exciting news for MINI owners (at least I was definitely waiting for Input Shaper).

Note that the firmware is in alpha, don't install it unless you know what you're doing.

If you don't know what it is:

Input Shaper is a feature designed to reduce ringing (also known as echoing or ghosting) and overshoots during printing by smoothing out the accelerations and decelerations of the printer’s movements. It works by analyzing the printer’s movements and applying a filter to the input signals to reduce the ringing effect. Thanks to faster travel speed and accelerations, it can also minimize stringing. It also enables faster printing.

Pressure Advance aims to improve the quality of printed parts by compensating for the pressure changes in the nozzle during printing. Pressure Advance together with Input Shaper enables the printing of better-looking models, reducing ringing, overshoots and issues with inconsistent filament extrusion. They also enable faster printing.

It's probably gonna be a while, but it's still great news!

"Get ready to leave the virtual world behind, because your analog FPV Rocket League is about to zoom into action, turning your living room into a racetrack of riotous revelry! Who needs digital copies when you can have a rocket-powered extravaganza taking up space, time, and your neighbor's attention, all while making your cat question its life choices?"

Normally slopes on my prints look fine, but recently I’ve been getting bad extrusion on some prints but not all. Same materials, same print file. Could this be one of the motors starting to fail? Printed on an ender 3.

Edit: so changing the POM wheels did nothing. However, I did notice while printing the layers weren’t cooling as much as they should before the next layer started. So maybe there could be a fan issue.

Yo guy noob here,

I have recently bought my self a sidewinder x2 as my first 3d printed, and I don't know much about 3d printing for now, anyway to get a good understanding on how great I have calibrated the printer I have printed the usual benchy, but I have this spots on the print

https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/465234818352021524/1150098279858720858/35c52867-3cd0-4fcb-be8f-3465763aaed3.png

https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/465234818352021524/1150098307075551283/ec49ae0b-4fca-4391-b79e-785c9ed6cfa3.png

(can't embedded any images because of the lemmyshitpost drama)

Are they normal? And if not how can I fix them?

It's basically a 10 inch screen matrix for SLA printers, a 130W blacklight lamp from Amazon and a ground glass for even lighting. The lamp gets very hot, so the two fans blow air over and under it (split cooling channel). The parts touching the lamp are printed in Greentec Pro Carbon, electronics box and cooling channel are printed in Geeetech matte PLA.

@3dprinting Hey everyone. I recently went to a miniature store to pick up some more premium paints for my miniatures I'm 3D printing for DnD. While I was there I saw a really nice paint cup for brushes. I knew I could get a model offline so I didn't buy it and instead opted to print one. I found a really nice one, but it lacked that little extra something. So I modified the original design and added the DnD logo. I think it turned out really nice.
What do you guys think?

@3dprinting Two weeks ago I showed part 1 of a dwarven ruin my DND group was exploring. Today I have a follow up. All 3d printed of course.

I own the Ender 3 Pro BUT, I have the silent motherboard 32-bit and installed with the firmware: "Ender-3 Pro_HW4.2.7_SW2.0.9.03_SpritExt_H300" because it seems like its the only one meant for the extruder pro kit. It complains that the BL-Touch is not attach to it. I can see it in Octoprint error message and gcode terminal.

• Firmware Source: https://www.crealitycloud.com/software-firmware/firmware?type=2

With the default firmware on it, it did manage to start the print till its heated to 228°C, but Octoprint couldn't proceed after the printer heated. It just waited till infinity.

Additionally the Display is not working at all, its beeping and mid beeping a louder beep is repeating every second. Not sure why, but the display claims to support Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 and Ender 3 v2.

More Sources:

• Display: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B09292H22C
• Extruder kit: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0B4NHNJ7K
• Silent Mainboard: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07TY3HQ5H

What firmware would be the correct one for the extruder? Should I return the Display?

Silent Mainboard did work with the stock-extruder. It stopped working with Octoprint after replacing the extruder with the new one, but seems to heat and move correctly.

A week ago I was printing things for my friends when suddenly my nozzle just fucking crashed out of nowhere into my pei bed and now it is ruined, I removed the pei bed, and installed my glass one that I had for several years, in the process of removing my magnetic sheet, my 3 solid petg spring replacers just MELTED.

I WAS OUT OF PETG, I ORDERED PETG, I DID ALL I CAN TO GET MY BED LEVELLED ENOUGH TO PRINT WITH ABL...

AND... IT... WOULD.... NOT.... STICK (Can you tell I'm angry right now?) AND! Whenever I restarted the print with different temperatures, glue, not glue ettc... It just maded a mess around my nozzle, I cleaned my bed too.

I am so done right now...

BTW THIS IS a troubleshooot request, I have no way to make my bed level right now...

Ask me for anything

Hey guys. Just wanted to hear some opinions on the Hero Me system. I personally think it's an neat idea and am definitely going to build one. What do you think? Have you used it?

Having a Creality Ender 3 Pro. Have upgraded the mainboard to a new Silent mainboard. Installed this Extroduer and also have a glass bed. I also purchased another glass bed to exchange the scratched one.

What should I do about my problem? Is my only solution to buy a CR-Touch Sensor? How does the sensor even work? Will it also scratch it when I am not careful enough or is it user friendly and fully automated?

I don't have any other bed except the glas one for now. Should I rather purchase a flexible sheet for the bed instead of a glas bed?

The crown is a 3D printed replica of the crown from the movie The Green Knight, starring Dev Patel as Sir Gawain. Absolutely loved the costume design in that movie. Incorporating the halos depicted around royalty in illuminated manuscripts and other artworks into the crowns themselves to infer divinity was just so fucking cool to me. I loved the idea of turning it on its head and making an undead king.

I'll be weathering the skull mask with a lot of dark greys and blacks, and the crown to be very similar to the tarnished and corroded crown seen in the film.

@3dprinting This may not be the best example, but I have been 3d printing for about 2 years. Only recently however have I combined it with my other nerdy hobby, DND (Dungeons and Dragons). I may not be the greatest painter and not everything here is painted, but I'm very happy with the results and clarity of my prints. Everything here I printed.

Printer: Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro
Filament: 3DHoJor

cross-posted from: https://merv.news/post/130483

After the last post publicly by Naomi Wu being

“Ok for those of you that haven't figured it out I got my wings clipped and they weren't gentle about it- so there's not going to be much posting on social media anymore and only on very specific subjects. I can leave but Kaidi can't so we're just going to follow the new rules and that's that. Nothing personal if I don't like and reply like I used to. I'll be focusing on the store and the occasional video. Thanks for understanding, it was fun while it lasted”

Naomi Wu mentions briefly on her silencing and how she is not nearly as safe as she was before now that it’s obvious to the Chinese government her disappearance won’t cause an uproar of bad press making China look bad.

Printed threads and snap connectors are nice, but M3 bolts and nuts are more robust and look dope. They also make the model easier to design and print, since you don't have to worry about tolerances as much.

STEP files here: printables.com/model/548770-master-spool

Hi all! I need a high temperature (~200C) motion system for ahem reasons. I know that at those temperatures steppers tend to cook, so keeping them inside the heated chamber is out of the question. I have already considered belts, screws (lead and ball) and stainless cable. Belts will not work because they will melt. Screws do not allow for static motor mounting and stainless steel cable has slip and extreme tension. Do you guys think chains and sprockets will work? Are they precise enough? Any input is welcome.