We're happy to announce that we were successfully able to initiate a BusKill lockscreen trigger using a 3D-printed BusKill prototype!

Watch the 3D Printable BusKill Proof-of-Concept Demo for more info youtube.com/v/Q-QjHelRvvk

What is BusKill?

BusKill is a laptop kill-cord. It's a USB cable with a magnetic breakaway that you attach to your body and connect to your computer.

Watch the BusKill Explainer Video for more info youtube.com/v/qPwyoD_cQR4

If the connection between you to your computer is severed, then your device will lock, shutdown, or shred its encryption keys -- thus keeping your encrypted data safe from thieves that steal your device.

Why?

While we do what we can to allow at-risk folks to purchase BusKill cables anonymously, there is always the risk of interdiction.

We don't consider hologram stickers or tamper-evident tape/crisps/glitter to be sufficient solutions to supply-chain security. Rather, the solution to these attacks is to build open-source, disassembleable, and easily inspectable hardware whose integrity can be validated without damaging the device and without sophisticated technology.

Actually, the best way to confirm the integrity of your hardware is to build it yourself. Fortunately, printing your own circuit boards, microcontroller, or silicon has a steeper learning curve than a BusKill cable -- which is essentially just a USB extension cable with a magnetic breakaway in the middle.

Mitigating interdiction via 3D printing is one of many reasons that Melanie Allen has been diligently working on prototyping a 3D-printable BusKill cable this year. In our latest update, we hope to showcase her progress and provide you some OpenSCAD and .stl files so you can experiment with building your own and help test and improve our designs.

Print BusKill

If you'd like to reproduce our experiment and print your own BusKill cable prototype, you can download the stl files and read our instructions here:

• buskill.in/3d-print-2023-08/

Iterate with us!

If you have access to a 3D Printer, you have basic EE experience, or you'd like to help us test our 3D printable BusKill prototype, please let us know. The whole is greater than the sum of its parts, and we're eager to finish-off this 3D printable BusKill prototype to help make this security-critical tool accessible to more people world-wide!

I'm expecting my garage where I print to get well into the 90s on some days this summer.

Ordinarily, I wouldn't turn down bacon for any reason, but in PLA it looks kinda bad. Any ideas as to cause and, more importantly, prevention?

This is an “Unauthorized Personnel Only” sign that I made using my Future n0t Found typeface. It is briefly referenced in my cyberpunk short story, “Keep Portland Wired,” which is being republished in The Big Book of Cyberpunk, coming out in September 2023.

I used an adhesive magnet sheet to adhere it to a white board in my makerspace at work.

Printed using a color change from yellow to black PLA on a Prusa i3 MK3S+.

Tags

My first print (after a benchy test) with my new Sovol SV06 is the Maltese Falcon replica.

The SV06 was affordable ($229 US after a coupon on Amazon, plus a free roll of silk PLA) and it prints great after assembly. Assembly was easy. Firmware update was fast and easy. I opted for a Prusaslicer profile I found on Reddit instead of using Cura Slicer since I use Prusas at work.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.antemeridiem.xyz/post/123877

The main thing I'm not sure about is the gaps on top and the globs and strings on the top and sides. I think the gaps on the bottom might be needing to level the bed and extruders better, and maybe I need to try a raft for the warping?

I'm using a flashforge creator pro with a glass print bed and layerneer bed weld, happy to fill in any other details too. I'm new to 3d printing so I'm not really sure what all the necessary details might be needed to figure out the problem

Had a long series of failed prints, tried levelling, replacing parts, nothing worked.

Finally by chance I noticed that the LED matrix had burnt out/broken LEDs.

But where can I get a replacement? Can you do one module at a time or do I need a whole new unit?

Anyone know what settings to change in Cura to help supports leave less markings on the print body?

Hi folks,

I've been watching too many video reviews and just want a little bit of advice before I make my purchase. I'm wanting to get into 3d printing with the most satisfying results possible for around $600 CAD .

I'm looking at the Ender 5 S1 , currently for $599 CAD on Amazon. It does what I want , I think, it gets nice and hot (300C) , can use lots of different materials, auto levels, uses.usb and wifi, is quick and has a cube frame.

I suspect I would be quite happy with it. But before I go and pull the trigger, is there anything else around this price range , say plus or minus $100 , that would be better? If so what advice can you give? What models should I investigate.

Permanently Deleted

cross-posted from: https://lemm.ee/post/676343

Just finished assembling this nice Tukkari TLX enclosure for my Prusa MK4 kit... which still hasn't shipped yet lol. It's really well designed and went together pretty easily, though assembly took a while. Should keep the cat hair off my MK4... someday...

Printed with greentec pro carbon (stiffest filament I've found so far). 8 perimeters, 45% infill, top/bottom 2mm. The arms are 230mm long. The design and material of the C frame are still not stiff enough to be usable, but I'm pretty proud of the lever design. Easy to put together, durable and doesn't wiggle to much.

So, yes, I know that due to layer lines etc, FDM (PLA) printing isn't safe for food, however is there a way of making it safe? Essentially I want to create a draw insert for cutlery, so can I print it, the coat it in something to make it food safe?

cross-posted from: https://lemm.ee/post/600079

I've been repairing a Creality CR-10S Pro V2 and can't figure out this persistent oddity. It prints spiral vases and benchies flawlessly, but regular 3D prints often have these pronounced bumps and thick whiskers sticking out. I think it's more than just Z seam blobs, I'm wondering if it's an issue with the wipe settings not working well in PrusaSlicer...

Here's another example of the issue: https://i.imgur.com/ZHssQWI.jpg

I'm using Kaaber transparent PETG, printing at 215/210 nozzle and 75 bed. I know this seems cool for PETG, but this brand tends to melt and ooze at anything hotter.

Here are my PrusaSlicer retraction settings, they are the default for this printer:

https://i.imgur.com/RqrltUL.jpg

I tried slightly bumping the retraction to 6.5mm and 65mm/s, but it made no difference.

Any ideas what would cause this? I'm getting it while trying to print many parts of the honeycomb storage wall off printables.

It's so easy to swap colors now! I can fit 14 rolls up top totally hidden.

I'm sure many have this problem of, what do I buy for the person who has everything I can already afford? 'cause I have that problem now. My dad has gone deep into 3DPrinting in his retirement (he handed me down my Ender 3). He's got both an Ender 3 and a resin printer, tho I can't remember what model.

I was hoping to pick the hive mind for some useful 3D printing related ideas that won't break the bank. Some useful utilities that maybe I hadn't thought of. I'd really appreciate any help.

It was a fun project, far, far from perfect, I have a lot to improve but I consider it a good star.

With 0 infill (but 3 walls) the nozzle travel only around the walls and this results in a very smooth surface. It's basically a vase mode.

PLA - Everyone Silk Copper

Printer - Artillery Genius

Hey, I'm a complete newbie when it comes to 3D printing. I have a chance to pick up this printer second hand, and I was wondering what the community thinks of the product. Would this printer be decent for a beginner? Thanks!

My latest creation: a (moving) miniature replica of the Tortuga (turtoise) scene, complete with a working magnet-rail. This miniature/ diorama will be intergrated on my race w.i.p. racing track/table.