sneekee_snek_17

joined 4 months ago
[–] sneekee_snek_17@lemmy.world 9 points 5 days ago

I'm very confused now

[–] sneekee_snek_17@lemmy.world 1 points 2 weeks ago

You may or may not be interested to hear that I took your warning to heart and I'm now planning on using an actual DC power supply, coupled with either a resistive or inductive ballast which will also be designed for that purpose.

I'm sure the original plan is easily workable for someone with training or education, but for an amateur, it was too far outside the box to find reliable information and feel confident in it

[–] sneekee_snek_17@lemmy.world 6 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

Well now you have to

[–] sneekee_snek_17@lemmy.world 2 points 2 weeks ago

Caution noted, I appreciate the effort either way

[–] sneekee_snek_17@lemmy.world 1 points 2 weeks ago

After reading more, it seems like I'm simply looking for a choke that limits current to 1ish amps

I'll probably be cranking up the current after I get it working, but this is a second step from the light bulb

[–] sneekee_snek_17@lemmy.world 4 points 2 weeks ago (3 children)

This is, hopefully, going to be functioning as a current- limiting ballast for a solid state tesla coil. So I need the 1.1A it draws, but not the motor.

I just wasn't sure if that 1.1A would stay constant if it was just the primary coil, without the motor.

I agree it's a weird question, but it's because the instructions I'm following are very vague about what to use as a ballast. The guy says to test the circuit with an incandescent bulb, then use a hair dryer, toaster, or other household implement that draws a couple/few amps. I'm trying to figure out the bare minimum of components from a device that will still draw current

 

Title pretty much says it all. I'm trying to find a current limiting ballast for a solid state tesla coil, and this has the right size and current draw, but I'd like to eliminate the motor screaming, if possible.

Thoughts?

[–] sneekee_snek_17@lemmy.world 2 points 3 weeks ago

The only name for them

[–] sneekee_snek_17@lemmy.world 24 points 3 weeks ago

The withdrawal from Afghanistan is the the most genuine "the buck stops here", that I can remember. He ripped off the bandaid and it was the right call

[–] sneekee_snek_17@lemmy.world 7 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

You're looking for your car, but you're all turned around.

[–] sneekee_snek_17@lemmy.world 5 points 3 weeks ago

And if for some reason, in your frontier scenario, you have plywood and bracing material, you could go with a rammed earth structure!

I just learned about rammed earth and got a few books about it, it's so fucking cool. I want to build a house with it now, so my great great great great great grandkids can inherit it

[–] sneekee_snek_17@lemmy.world 1 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

I'm not proud of it, but I got like six little, ~2", brass-plated L-brackets from home depot and attached them along the long sides.

It's not ideal because TECHNICALLY wood movement could be an issue, but movement with the grain is minimal, and I needed to just get the thing done so I risked it. No issues yet and it has been in my basement (which has pretty significant humidity swings) for probably a year now.

Also, but a dumb question, I reached this exact point in the build, when I had a frame and a top and was like........well now what?

[–] sneekee_snek_17@lemmy.world 1 points 3 weeks ago

I DRANK EVERY DAY FOR YEARS BECAUSE I WAS UNHAPPY WITH MYSELF AND MY LIFE, THEN I HIT ROCK BOTTOM, BUCKLED DOWN, MADE SOME NECESSARY FUCKN CHANGES, BEEN SOBER FIVE YEARS, AND NOW I'M HAPPILY MARRIED WITH A BABY BOY IN A BEAUTIFUL HOUSE

LIFE IS FUCKING GOOD

 

I'm using an instructable as reference for a project and it says to use anything available that draws 5-10A as a ballast. Examples were a hair dryer, I thin toaster, and also an incandescent bulb as a test article.

I don't quite understand include any of those things in the circuit. Is it as simple as ripping the guts or if a hair dryer to get to the heating element and writing it in with the exposed leads?

Any general information on ballasts that aren't for florescent lighting would be very helpful

 

So the lone LED in the middle, with two resistors, is going to be on all the time, as a night light to the night light.

If the rest of the LEDs are on a switch, will I have to run two completely separate wires for the single LED, isolating it on its own circuit?

I'm tentatively planning on doing that, using heat shrink or something like that to tidy up the wires, then use two DC barrel jacks to connect each set of wires to the board. Are there any potential problems with this plan?

 

So after doing some analysis of human factors (asked my lovely wife what she prefers), I decided to ditch the PIR sensor and just go with a switch. This is just the current state of the board, I'm gonna rip apart an old router to get the barrel jack, then put this thing in an enclosure of some sort and call it day.

I'm also putting one LED with I think a 3k resistor that'll be on all the time as a night light to the night light, so you can find the switch

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IT'S ALIIIIIIIIIVE (i.imgur.com)
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by sneekee_snek_17@lemmy.world to c/diy_electronics@lemmy.ml
 

But if I want the LEDs to actually be bright, I probably need to use the sensor to activate a relay, right?

I know this is basic as shit, but I'm having a blast

Update: first trial with the planned number of LEDs and pillow stuffing, looks fantastic!

 

I've got the appropriate amount of light for my microscope ring light, but now I need to put it all in an enclosure of some sort.

If I don't have a custom board to solder these to, what are my best options for connecting these she mounting them into something?

If this is too vague, please let me know if I can clarify

 

I've got my work cut out for me, there's a decent amount of flattening needed on a few strips, and the planer I have access to is abut rough around the edges, so not all the joints are perfect, but it's alright overall.

Once it's flattened and cleaned up, the remaining aesthetic flourishes are to use walnut/sapele to put an edge around it or just cap the ends, then ease the edges and router handles into the ends. I was looking at the boos block website, and they offer the option to put the finger grooves in the middle or in the bottom edge and I really like the functionality of having them on the bottom

 

First off, boy did I underestimate how much wood a butcher block cutting board this size (approx. 15×20×2) would end up using.

The joints also aren't perfect, but I don't have the time or energy for perfection at the moment, this one is kind of a functional proof of concept. I'm going to give it to a friend of mine, but I've been upfront that it will not be perfect.

The next one, that will be made from the same beam, but MUCH cleaner, straighter-grained wood, will be more precise, more consistent color, probably marginally stronger because of the grain, just better in every way

But this only took two days and like three hours of work to go from a massive, rough-cut hunk of maple to this, so I'm pleased with it

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submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by sneekee_snek_17@lemmy.world to c/diy_electronics@lemmy.ml
 

I got a microscope at auction a few weeks ago for a great price, only issue is the lights are super dim.

I decided to make some supplementary lighting for it, this was my first little proof-of-concept, to show myself that all the formulas I learned back in physics really work and that I can put together simple stuff without destroying any components, and while understanding what I'm doing.

Next will be to rerun the numbers with 5V from a wall wart, then maybe start working on a housing for everything. It's been years since I tinkered with electronics and I forgot how much fun it is, I'm having a blast!

That's about all really, I'm super excited about baby's first breadboard and I'm just happy to be here!

Also, if anyone sees something that is a safety hazard, please let me know

Also also: Technically these aren't the correct resistors, they're allowing ~26 milliamps across the LEDs, when they're rated for 20, but I'm here for a good time not a long time

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submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by sneekee_snek_17@lemmy.world to c/woodworking@lemmy.ca
 

So I just picked up this 12"×6"×10' maple beam at an auction today and had to chop off two feet of it to fit it in my car. I'm thinking of making a couple end-grain carving boards for friends with what was cut off.

I'm tentatively thinking of just slicing it into 2" cookies and gluing them together, but I've never seen a cutting board like this that wasn't a collection of like 1" pieces glued together. Is there any reason not to use larger pieces when gluing up a cutting board? Thanks in advance

This is the face that was cut today, feels bone-dry

 

In a couple days, I'll be the proud new owner of a big-ass maple mantle and 22 square feet of olive, which I've never worked with before

I'm tossing around the idea of using the olive for a table top, but that's far from certain, as I haven't seen any of it in person yet.

What experience do y'all have with olive and what do you recommend?

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submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by sneekee_snek_17@lemmy.world to c/photoshoprequest@lemmy.ml
 

Hi everyone,

I got out of the army a couple years ago, and as I was transitioning out I set up my dress uniform all prim and proper, but never had a reason to get an official photo taken in it.

My parent's only picture of me in a dress uniform is after basic training, so they have been basically begging me for an updated photo since I told them I was buying the new uniform.

The issue is that I've had a mustache/goatee combo of varying length since getting out, and my wife and I are both strongly against completely shaving it for the picture. If I trim it down, hopefully revealing the structure of my face, could the photo be altered to appear as though I had shaved?

Lastly, I know the rules say to link a photo, but because a dress uniform is kind of like wearing your entire service history, I prefer to not make it utterly public. The photos are the regulation covering these types of photos

Thanks in advance!

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