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Your own 3D parametric modeler.

www.freecad.org

FreeCAD is an open-source parametric 3D modeler made primarily to design real-life objects of any size. Parametric modeling allows you to easily modify your design by going back into your model history and changing its parameters.

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Still pretty new to FreeCAD (and CAD in general), any advice on my design before I 3d print it? (www.printables.com)

submitted 2 weeks ago by MxRemy@piefed.social to c/freecad@lemmy.ml

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The .stl and .fcstd files are at the link. All the test joints I printed fit together really nicely, but I'm worried the overall design might have issues that I'm too much of an amateur to identify. It'll need a LOT of filament... Good wooden marudai cost hundreds of dollars, whereas 1500g of my preferred filament is only like $45, but I'd still hate to waste that much of it. The printing itself I'm not too concerned about, it's easy stuff. Just a little bridging and no support. Of course, that doesn't necessarily mean the finished/assembled object will be functional. Thanks in advance if you have any tips!

PS: This is also my first use of the spreadsheet function, I usually just rely on named constraints from prior sketches. It's really neat. FreeCAD rules!

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[–] Grass@sh.itjust.works 1 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

I had no idea what it was before skimming the linked article, but after seeing the images of one in use I would anticipate string snagging on the top a lot, and the verticals being under a lot of stress. I would use wood or metal dowels/rods for the verticals, but the top piece is probably going to be a pain if you don't have a way to make a nice round.

For wood top without big machine tools I would be tempted to use two sizes of hole saw or a drill hole saw and a drill bit (not sure about the actual size, bigger would be double hole saw and smaller hole saw and drill bit). To center a hole saw, stack another piece of wood under and clamp them together outside of the circle, drill a center hole all the way through, then use the hole saw smallest to biggest only through the top piece. If the smaller hole is a drill bit size then drill the center pilot hole smaller, hole saw the outer circle, then the center hole bit size through the pilot hole. Then sanding... I would put a long bolt through big washer, the work piece, big washer, then nut, mount it on a drill and use sandpaper on a block and let the drill do the hard part. The center part I would reverse it and somehow mount sandpaper to the drill probably use larger die grinder sanding bits. If you have a die grinder or dremel use that but I've used a drill as a die grinder many times.

Printed top maybe either abs/vapour smooth which will be fumesy and toxic, or whatever plastic and sanding.

[–] MxRemy@piefed.social 1 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

The consensus seems to be pretty solid that wood is a better overall choice for this project, but what everyone is describing seems to involve a lot more woodworking tools than I have, which is sadly zero lol. This might be one of those "when all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail" situations for me?

[–] Grass@sh.itjust.works 2 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

that is why I suggested drill with hole saws since its a fairly common starter power tool with the bits being generally not to bad price wise. Look in to if there is a tool library in your town. generally a cheap and easy way to use tools you don't use enough to justify buying a new one. for the hole saw method probably just a scrap plywood will be good enough if you cut the hole in a nice spot. Occasionally I'll pull these plywood topped pallets out of the alley behind my work if they aren't filthy. I've also used planks off of the other type of pallet but they tend to be in rougher shape.

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[–] MxRemy@piefed.social 1 points 2 weeks ago

That's worth checking into, I'll give it a shot. Thanks!