jon_slider

joined 2 years ago
[–] jon_slider@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

Beautiful work! thanks for the photos

fwiw, something like that could be good for pilots that want a Red Light in the cockpit, plus powerful enought white light to do exterior walk around inspections.

[–] jon_slider@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

MAO D2 today.. Love the regulated output w no PWM

https://imgur.com/myH8eeb

[–] jon_slider@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

Wurkkos TS10 MAO w sw45k mod is in my pocket. It is my favorite TS10.

picture album: https://imgur.com/a/KMuvsRP

in stock form I like to carry the Silver TS10 w 6000K leds.. review album here: https://imgur.com/a/H9Usict

[–] jon_slider@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

these flowcharts are just fantastic!

thank you very much for sharing them

I have started using them, marked up with the specific changes I make to different anduril lights I own, like this one for my Aluminium TS10's:

https://i.imgur.com/YH8Eh5A.png

makes it really easy to keep track of changes I make to the factory defaults

I nominate this thread to be a sticky.. Thumbs Up!

[–] jon_slider@lemmy.world 4 points 2 years ago

congratulations looks very nice, thanks for the pics

[–] jon_slider@lemmy.world 1 points 2 years ago

Super grateful! Enjoy your weekend ;-)

[–] jon_slider@lemmy.world 2 points 2 years ago* (last edited 2 years ago) (2 children)

I just checked with avrdude (on Linux), and I had no difficulties with pinging the device, backing up, and updating, while using the instructions over at https://anduril.click/flashing/avrdude.html.

SOLVED!

Thank you very much!

I was able to successfully ping and backup eeprom and hex file from my D2 with the following commands:

ping:

avrdude -p t1634 -c usbasp -n

backup eeprom:

avrdude -p t1634 -c usbasp -U eeprom:r:desktop/D2eeprom-backup.hex:i

backup D2 stock hex:

avrdude -p t1634 -c usbasp -U flash:r:desktop/oldD2-firmware.hex:i

Thanks!

[–] jon_slider@lemmy.world 2 points 2 years ago (6 children)

That worked! thanks ;-)

no clue yet what command line to use to save a backup of my D2 hex file.. suggestions welcome

this is the 3rd time Ive tried to reply.. lemmy keeps losing my posts.. hmmm

[–] jon_slider@lemmy.world 2 points 2 years ago (8 children)

I believe that pymcuprog is for UDPI programmers, and your Hank programmer is USBasp which requires avrdude for programming.

thanks for the education, that is very helpful

Im technologically challenged atm.. my iMac wont run avrdude, and I dont have an android phone to run zflasher

you can keep current with Anduril 2 while also customizing it for your preferences if you’re willing to learn to modify the code

the apps needed to do that, dont run on my iMac, and Im not motivated to modify code

I’ve gotten to the point where I just stick with stock Anduril 2 in most cases.

I feel the same way… unless there is a hex file available that offers a feature I value, for example, I reflash the SC21 Pro, to add the lower lows available in later firmware

but I have not heard of a reason to reflash my D2.. the stock firmware works fine for me, so far

much appreciate your help understanding my options, and limitations

enjoy your weekend ;-)

[–] jon_slider@lemmy.world 3 points 2 years ago* (last edited 2 years ago) (10 children)

thanks for following up ;-)

No, I do not yet know the correct command line syntax

I would welcome any help.. here is the backstory:

I bought Hank’s programmer and am trying to learn how to ping the D2…

I dont have an Android phone, and cannot use avrdude on my iMac. I use pymcuprog and issue commands through Terminal in my iMac, to reflash Anduril on my Wurkkos TS10 successfuly.

when I use the gchart programmers for my TS10, I use this command line, that works very well:

pymcuprog ping -t uart -u /dev/tty.wchusbserial1430 -d attiny1616

Im trying to figure out what command line to use for the Emisar D2? 
I think it uses a 1634 chip? I believe I need this info to edit the command line where it says attiny1616. Is that true, or does the D2 use attiny1616?

when I plug the Hank programmer into my iMac, with the pogo pins connected to the head of my D2, and I run this command in Terminal:

**
ls /dev/{tty,cu}.***

the response is

**
tty.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port**

I believe I need that info to tell pymcuprog to use the Hank programmer..

so I took a couple of guesses and modified the command line to ping the D2 like this:

pymcuprog ping -t uart -u /dev/tty.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port -d attiny1634

but that command line does not work in Terminal (yet), I get this response in Terminal:

Unable to setup stack for device attiny1634
Currently supported devices (in ‘devices’ folder):
atmega1608, atmega1609, atmega3208, atmega3209, atmega328p, atmega4808, atmega4809, atmega808, atmega809, atsamd21e18a, atsamd21g18a, attiny1604, attiny1606, attiny1607, attiny1614, attiny1616, attiny1617, attiny1624, attiny1626, attiny1627, attiny202, attiny204, attiny212, attiny214, attiny3216, attiny3217, attiny3224, attiny3226, attiny3227, attiny402, attiny404, attiny406, attiny412, attiny414, attiny416, attiny417, attiny424, attiny426, attiny427, attiny804, attiny806, attiny807, attiny814, attiny816, attiny817, attiny824, attiny826, attiny827, attiny84a, avr128da28, avr128da32, avr128da48, avr128da64, avr128db28, avr128db32, avr128db48, avr128db64, avr16dd14, avr16dd20, avr16dd28, avr16dd32, avr16ea28, avr16ea32, avr16ea48, avr32da28, avr32da32, avr32da48, avr32db28, avr32db32, avr32db48, avr32dd14, avr32dd20, avr32dd28, avr32dd32, avr32ea28, avr32ea32, avr32ea48, avr64da28, avr64da32, avr64da48, avr64da64, avr64db28, avr64db32, avr64db48, avr64db64, avr64dd14, avr64dd20, avr64dd28, avr64dd32, avr64ea28, avr64ea32, avr64ea48, avr8ea28, avr8ea32, pic16f15244, pic16f15276, pic16f15376, pic16f17146, pic16f1768, pic16f1769, pic16f1779, pic16f18146, pic16f18446, pic16f18456, pic16lf18456, pic18f16q40, pic18f16q41, pic18f47k40, pic18f47k42, pic18f47q10, pic18f47q43, pic18f57q43, pic18f57q84, pic24fj128ga705, pic24fj64gu205, uc3a3256

(apparently my pymcuprog install does not include attiny1634)

Do you have any suggestions what the correct command line would be, to ping my Emisar D2?

Once I get that sorted, I will have the Option to also reflash to newer firmware, but that is not my priority. I just want to backup my existing firmware with my eeprom settings.

I dont really want to update to newer D2 firmware, that uses 3C for channel switching. I can switch channels on my D2 using 3H, and I like it that way.

It means I dont have to relearn a different command for my D2, when I want to switch from smooth to stepped ramping. This keeps 3C consistent with my other Anduril lights.

 

outstanding little Regulated Anduril Light!

Album w more details: https://imgur.com/a/vXeGC1t

 

Loving the color of this beam.. Just perfect for dark of night.

available for adoption

1
submitted 2 years ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by jon_slider@lemmy.world to c/flashlight@lemmy.world
 

Both lights are modded to 3000K 219b, w 30 degree Pebbled Tir.

tldnr: Compare and Contrast Summary

The Mini has better regulation, runtime, and less flicker than the Pro. It lacks a constant on indicator button light, but has a more muggle friendly low battery warning.

The Pro has better low modes below 1 lumen, and much better ramping control. It also has a battery voltage check option.

===

the longer version ;-)

Ramping

The Mini has its own version of a ramping UI (plus a toggle to a 3 mode clicky UI). The ramping on the Mini jumps up from the low mode, to about 60 lumens very quickly. It takes some fiddling to dial in a lower output, for example 10 lumens.

I like the Pro ramping speed better, it is much easier to fine tune to an output in the 10 lumen range.

Driver efficiency and regulation

The Mini has regulated output and can Sustain 300 lumens 4x longer than the Pro (53 minutes vs 13 minutes):

runtime charts courtesy of zeroair

The Mini has much lower flicker index. (flicker index is a combination of modulation depth and frequency).

The Pro has full PWM, iow 100% modulation, where the LED is turning all the way off and back on, albeit at very high frequency that is too fast to see.

Button light, low battery behavior

The Mini has a button light that only comes on for about 5 seconds when the light is first turned on. It is an automatic battery level indicator. When the battery is charged, the button light shines bright Green for 5 seconds when first turned on. With a CR123 battery (to simulate a discharged LiIon), the button light fast blinks bright Red, non stop, while the light is On. This is a very muggle friendly battery indicator.

The Pro has a button light that by default is on in dim Green all the time. I like this locator light feature. It helps me find the light in the dark, for example when I put it on my nightstand. The button light also helps me find the switch button when using the light. The Pro with a CR123 shows dim Green rapid flashes, only while the light is off.

Output Range

The lowest level on the Mini is 0.8 lumens, momentary maximum is 415 lumens, with a 3000K 219b.

The lowest level on the Pro is .02 lumens (w visible PWM when waving the light), momentary maximum is 480 lumens, also with 3000K 219b.

Flicker Index

The Mini:

Flicker Index of 0.2704 when at about 6 lumens output.

Flicker Index of 0.0042 when at about 30 lumens output.

(Flicker below 0.0500 is considered harmless.)

The Pro:

Flicker Index of 0.7951 at about 6 lumens output.

Flicker Index of 0.5339 at about 30 lumens output.

(The Pro scores poorly due to PWM, although it is very fast)

Opple 3 flicker measurements

https://i.imgur.com/M6p3q0h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YzKsaVt.jpg