Thevenin

joined 1 year ago
[–] Thevenin@beehaw.org 1 points 14 hours ago (1 children)

I've started playing through some classic SNES and GBA games.

Chrono Trigger -- Oh man, this one's good. The soundtrack is on fire, and the game does a good job at making you feel like your actions make a difference.

Metroid Fusion -- If you told me this was made in 2024, I'd probably believe you. It has a sense of pacing and suspense that I wasn't expecting for a metroidvania.

I haven't gotten very far in either, but so far it's looking like they've aged like wine.

[–] Thevenin@beehaw.org 11 points 1 week ago

I gotta say, this was a weird week to start HRT.

[–] Thevenin@beehaw.org 9 points 1 week ago (1 children)

I don't know whether or not an entire month is the right timeframe, but I definitely agree with the principle of counting to ten before you speak. I've already made at least one discussion worse by failing to consider my tone. If my ideas are worth sharing now, they'll be worth sharing when the moratorium is over, and they'll only gain nuance by being left in the oven for longer.

[–] Thevenin@beehaw.org 53 points 1 week ago (1 children)

They made their decisions and you made yours. If you decided that we'd be better off with Trump, that's on you. Own it.

Putting Trump in office makes Gaza worse. He's promised us as much. Maybe you proved a point to the Democrats, and maybe you didn't. Maybe now they'll lean even harder to the center. Who knows. That's a gamble you took, and you made steep sacrifices to make that gamble.

Gambling with someone's life to make a political point does not make you their ally.

[–] Thevenin@beehaw.org 15 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

In the Weimar Republic, the Social Democrats (SPD) were the largest party as late as 1930, and had control thanks to a coalition with centrists.

In 1931, the Communists of Germany (KPD) -- who had long taken offense at the compromises of the SPD -- caucused with the Nazis to topple the Prussian government and remove the SPD from power, believing that Nazi rise would accelerate the collapse of capitalism and would trigger a "German October," a proper communist revolution that would eliminate the Nazis and solve the shortcomings of the SPD.

On April 1, 1933, the Executive Committee of the Communist International stated:

Despite the fascist terror, the revolutionary upturn in Germany will inexorably grow. The masses' defense against fascism will inexorably grow. The establishment of an openly fascist dictatorship, which has shattered every democratic illusion in the masses and is liberating the masses from the influence of the Social Democrats, is accelerating the tempo of Germany's development towards a proletarian revolution.

They were... incorrect. Their gamble cost 85 million lives, and the eventual collapse of the Soviet Union can be traced back to the knock-on effects of the war. Accelerationism is creating a monster to defeat an enemy you cannot, then being startled to discover you can't defeat the monster either, and then blaming your original enemy for the product of your own hubris. No matter how you justify it, no matter what issues drive you, refusing to find common ground and build coalitions against the fascists helps nobody but the fascists.

[–] Thevenin@beehaw.org 2 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (1 children)

The initial contract is plausibly just for 12V car batteries, but if Zoolnasm's goal is 10GWh/yr, they definitely have their eyes set on larger-scale applications.

Also, if they're actually capable of 190Wh/kg, that's better than current-gen automotive LFP. That's a pretty huge "if," though.

[–] Thevenin@beehaw.org 3 points 4 weeks ago (1 children)

Based on Drew Builds Stuff:

  • Stuff Made Here, applying high technology and robotics to low-stakes challenges.
  • The Thought Emporium (Also on Nebula). One day, they're artificially aging whiskey with ultrasound, the next, the host is editing his own genes to remove lactose intolerance.

Based on the intersection of building and the great outdoors:

  • Quiet Nerd, who's been building a lot of camping equipment lately.

Some shots in the dark, based on exploration and documenting the unseen:

Based on Baumgartner Restoration:

  • Hand Tool Rescue, a channel where they lovingly restore antique tools and machines.
[–] Thevenin@beehaw.org 2 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Ships can register any nation as their flag state, so they often choose flags of convenience based on whoever has the lowest fees or regulations -- or more insidiously, whoever has the least ability to hold companies accountable.

This is why so many shipping companies register in Liberia, Panama, and the Marshall Islands. Also Mongolia, which is landlocked.

So unless we want to fill the oceans and ports with ships that have nuclear reactors with no regulation, no safety measures, and no accountability, we're gonna have to fix the last hundred years of international maritime law.

[–] Thevenin@beehaw.org 6 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (1 children)

While I don’t say this as a criticism of the author, it is worth pointing out that she’s also failed to adapt to the new technologies. She talks about how teachers will need to adapt to the new tools but ultimately places the blame on the students rather than reconsidering who her audience is.

How would you propose adapting to this? Do you believe it's the teacher's responsibility to enact this change rather than (for example) a principal or board of directors?

The average teacher does not have the luxury of choosing their audience. Ideally you'd only teach students who want to learn, but in reality teachers are given a class of students and ordered to teach them. If enough students fail their exams, or if the teacher gives up on the ones who don't care, the teacher is assumed to be at fault and gets fired.

You can theoretically change your exams so that chatbot-dependent students will fail, or lower your bar because chatbots are "good enough" for everyday life. But thanks to standardized testing, most teachers do not have the power to change their success metrics in either direction.

This article is about PhD students coasting through their technical writing courses using chatbots. This is an environment/application where the product (writing a paper) is secondary to the process (critical analysis), so being able to use a chatbot is missing the point. Even if it were, cancelling your technical writing class to replace it with an AI-wrangling class is not a curriculum modification but an abdication. Doing that can get your program canceled, and could even get a tenured professor fired.

The author was really stuck between a rock and a hard place. Re-evaluating the systemic circumstances that incentivize cheating is crucially important -- on that we absolutely agree -- but it's a responsibility that should be directed at those with actual power over that system.

[Edit: taking the tone down a notch.]

[–] Thevenin@beehaw.org 2 points 1 month ago (1 children)

If resin is a non-starter for you, FDM printing can also make cool miniatures, but it will take more effort and the details won't be as fine.

People are getting good results printing minis on the Elegoo Neptune printers which are around USD$190. The latest fad is multi-material printers like the Anycubic Kobra 3 combo (USD$380) and Bambu A1 combo (USD$490) which can make colorful figurines at the cost of wasted plastic.

Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors has been getting pretty good results and is a good channel to follow if you go down the FDM route.

(Elephant-in-the-room sidenote: If you look at FDM printers, you'll run into fans militantly promoting Bambu Lab as part of an ongoing corporate-sponsored flamewar, and the community has a laundry list of grievances against the company. It's a mess. Bambu printers are good but not spectacular, and easy to use but hardly the only user-friendly printers out there.)

[–] Thevenin@beehaw.org 2 points 1 month ago (3 children)

I think for a small, detailed figure that you're going to photograph, I'd recommend resin sprayed with a food-safe clear coat such as shellac.

Resin of all kinds requires rubber gloves, cleanup, and a well-ventilated room because it's smelly and generally bad for you in its unfinished liquid form. A small resin printer will cost under USD$200. Creality has one on sale for USD$100. They also sell washing/curing stations -- I built my own stations out of junk, but for USD$99, I'd go with theirs. Much more compact.

Nerdtronics made some excellent videos introducing resin and explaining how and why we print the way we do. These days, almost all printers are plug-and-play and the software is super smart, but I think these videos are highly educational anyways.

[–] Thevenin@beehaw.org 3 points 1 month ago (5 children)

First, what kind of models are you curious about making? Big, small, decorative, springy, strong? Cosplay helmets, bike parts, tabletop miniatures?

This will inform whether you should look at tutorials for FDM (filament) printing or MSLA/DLP (resin) printing.

113
egg🐧irl (beehaw.org)
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by Thevenin@beehaw.org to c/egg_irl@lemmy.blahaj.zone
 

So I've been thinking about Linux recently, and I'm told this is where the Linux experts hang out. I have a lot of questions that I can barely articulate, so I'm just hoping someone gets where I'm coming from.

I always knew there were more than two operating systems, but the closest I got to open-source software was dabbling with Firefox and OpenOffice in college. I'm an engineer, and trying to stay compatible with all the engineering programs means you're probably going to use Windows whether you like it or not, so I never seriously considered another OS until now. I'm proud of being good at Windows, but also bitter about it… I can't shake the nagging feeling that I've been missing out.

So I started looking up guides on Linux, and I have so many questions.

I'm astonished by how many distros there are. It's not just Ubuntu, we have Mint and Zorin and MX and enough options to make my head spin. So how do you choose a distro? Do you just know, or do you have to try them all? Trying one is daunting enough. I'm afraid people might lose respect for me and the open-source software movement if I change my mind. Is there some place where you can try distros on for size without the trouble and risk of migrating multiple times?

How do I know if Linux is right for me? How do I know Windows is wrong? If I loathe my user experience with Windows, is that the fault of Windows or just me? If Linux starts feeling comfortable, how do I know it's because I've made the right choice and it's not just inertia setting in? Does that even matter?

I'm at least good with Windows, but I lack the intuition of the average Linux user. Could I really master Linux the way I have Windows, or would my awkward personality relegate me to being a permanent tourist?

Is my hardware too old to start tinkering with OSs?

I know your choice of OS should take priority over your programs, as long as those programs aren't vital, but I have a full Steam library and don't look forward to losing any old friends. Can I partition my drive? Is that worth the trouble, switching from OS to OS depending on circumstances? I hear some distros these days can run some windows programs, and that you don't have to leave your old programs behind the way you used to, but can I count on that trend continuing?

Will losing touch with the Windows environment make it more difficult for me to succeed in a Windows-dominated career?

Sorry for the ramble. I'm probably overthinking this. I overthink everything. But I also grew up in a time and place where changing OSs meant you risked losing everything.

EDIT: The post title has been updated from “Need help with Linux” to “egg🐧irl” to meet local standards. This post happened because I was writing a post for a tech forum, but had other things on my mind, things which I’ve yet to find the courage to verbalize directly. I appreciate the advice and encouragement, both about migrating to Linux, and… yaknow… “migrating to Linux.”

 

I've been getting back into printing and painting D&D miniatures lately I'm not very good yet, but I felt like sharing some of the things I've learned.

Bearded Devils https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/635943923575160832/1129061019772256376/20230711_085409.jpg

I printed these from a Loot Studios 3d file I got a few years back. The skin is a basecoat of purple with a wash of Citadel Reiksland Fleshshade. I did not use primer, and time will tell if that was a mistake. For the clothing, I used a different color for each model, because I like color coding my enemies instead of numbering them. I used basecoats like Reaper Bleached Linen with a watered-down topcoat. I find that if you get the consistency right, watered-down acrylics act almost exactly like contrast paints, so that's my go-to for fabrics.

A Bearded's Devil's beard is supposed to be prehensile and snakelike. I tried drybrushing, but it didn't make the tentacles look slimy. I tried edge highlighting, but I don't want to spend 30 minutes painting a monster that will die in 29. I settled on a base of lime green with a topcoat of watered-down Armypainter Angel Green, and while it's a smidge messy, it's the right ratio of effort to results for my taste.

Drybrushing added a bit of white to all the horns and sun-facing surfaces. I'm still getting the hang of drybrushing, so it looks a little dusty on some of them.

I wanted the ground to look like umber or lignite, so I used Citadel Contrast Wildwood directly on the grey resin. I'm very happy with the outcome. I think most people paint their bases before gluing the minis on, but I learned the hard way that you have to leave a bare patch for the feet or else the CA glue won't stick.

The devil front-and-center is a lesson in persistence. Its entire left leg failed to print below the knee, but print failures are just kitbashes waiting to happen. Instead of throwing it out, I added a nail as a pegleg, glued down with a few dots of resin (stronger than CA glue, IMO). It's now my favorite of the group. As I like to say, "Some resin and paint make me the printer I ain't."

Chain Devils https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/635943923575160832/1129061020388819105/20230707_174901.jpg

These were conceptually simple but technically challenging. I used Army Painter Pure Red as the basecoat and highlighted the chains in Leadbelcher, which was time consuming. The whole thing got drenched in Agrax Earthshade, which is my favorite way to make skin look dirty and metal look rusty. I think that making the Chain Devil look like a tetanus dispenser should a good way to prevent your players from calling them "chain daddies," but we'll see. I followed up with some Reaper Filigree Silver drybrushing to make some of the points look sharp.

I wanted the bases to look like mud or clay, and Snakebite on the bare grey resin accomplished just that.

Spined Devils https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/635943923575160832/1129061020091043911/20230707_174926.jpg

These were a ton of fun. A basecoat of purple, a wash with Agrax, and drybrushing with Army Painter Pure Red to put some blush on the spines. They come pretty close to the pictures in the book.

For the ground, I wanted chert or flint, something sharp and unpleasant like the creature itself, so I painted it matte grey and added white drybrushing to the edges.

Kobolds https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/635943923575160832/1129062753911459861/20230707_175014.jpg

These are Reaper Bones miniatures I've had around for a while. I spent way too much time painting because these models have so much personality I couldn't help myself. Since Kobolds mostly wear skins, I made heavy use of Contrast Snakebite and Wyldwood, alternating basecoats for different color tones. The inventor's wicker basket is Wyldwood directly on the white mini. I think some light drybrushing on the two on the right would help bring out their skin texture.

I'm pretty disappointed with the sorcerer's fireball. It doesn't seem very energetic. Some glow effects could help here, but I haven't learned how to do object-source lighting yet, and these minis are punishingly tiny.

If anyone has advice or feedback, I'm all ears.

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