this post was submitted on 10 Apr 2025
13 points (100.0% liked)

fixing

785 readers
2 users here now

Celebrating/talking about repairing stuff, the right to repair stuff, and the intersection of tech and solarpunk ideals.

What does it mean to use what we have, including technology, to try to build a better, more environmentally just world?

founded 3 years ago
MODERATORS
 

I need to connect a PC to my washing machine. The washing machine has a bank of pins labelled like this:

  • 0v
  • tx
  • rx
  • 5v

The microcontroller is an ATmega32L, which has specs for the serial connection as follows:

specsThe Universal Synchronous and Asynchronous serial Receiver and Transmitter (USART) is a highly flexible serial communication device. The main features are:
• Full Duplex Operation (Independent Serial Receive and Transmit Registers)
• Asynchronous or Synchronous Operation
• Master or Slave Clocked Synchronous Operation
• High Resolution Baud Rate Generator
• Supports Serial Frames with 5, 6, 7, 8, or 9 Data Bits and 1 or 2 Stop Bits
• Odd or Even Parity Generation and Parity Check Supported by Hardware
• Data OverRun Detection
• Framing Error Detection
• Noise Filtering Includes False Start Bit Detection and Digital Low Pass Filter
• Three Separate Interrupts on TX Complete, TX Data Register Empty, and RX Complete
• Multi-processor Communication Mode
• Double Speed Asynchronous Communication Mode

My USB to TTL serial adapter is apparently based on a ch340 chip. It looks almost exactly like the pic I attached, except mine does not have a crystal on it because I think the chip has an embedded clock. The important thing is the pins match my adapter.

My knee-jerk thought was to connect it as follows:

adapter → washing machine PCB

gnd → 0v
rxd → tx
txd → rx
3v3 → (nothing)
5v → 5v ← bad idea?

(with s1 jumped to 5v on the adapter)

Someone told me I should not connect 5v to 5v. I was assuming one connection needed 5v and the other supplied it, but I was told they are both supplying 5v, but not perfectly 5v, so the difference will strain something and cause damage.

So how should I hook this up?

update (I’m stuffed?)

I heard washing machine manufacturers often sabotage the serial ports before shipping as an anti-repair tactic. I thought my old machine might pre-date that practice, but I might be wrong. I metered TX voltage against 0v using a crappy cheap DMM. Results:

0.01, 0.00, 0.01, 0.00, 0.01, 0.00, 0.01, 0.00, … etc, every second or so.

Looked encouraging, as if there is activity. Then I metered 0v against 5v:

0.01, 0.00, 0.01, 0.00, 0.01, 0.00, 0.01, 0.00, … etc, every second or so.

Yikes. I was expecting that to read a steady 5v. Due to bad wiring in the house, I think that is just noise on the ground wire. And apparently the serial port is dead.

I had the two 5v lines connected to each other for a while, so it’s possible I damaged it, if not the manufacturer.

top 6 comments
sorted by: hot top controversial new old
[–] residentoflaniakea@discuss.tchncs.de 9 points 2 days ago (2 children)

If they both are power supplied, and have ground connected then what would you need the 5V connection for? Some devices that externally supply power can come with a protection diode to prevent looping power back to prevent the scenario you described but looks like that's not needed. You would have to know the protocol used such as baudrate, bitlength, stopbits and parity. If you don't have that info try common baudrates (115200), 8 bits, 1 stop, no parity.

[–] perestroika@slrpnk.net 7 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

Note: another really common combination is 9600 baud, 8 data, 1 stop. Antiquated, but a washing machine probably doesn't need anything fast.

[–] diyrebel@lemmy.dbzer0.com 1 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (1 children)

I had the two 5v pins connected (from 5v on the adapter to the 5v pin on the washing machine). I had it that way for maybe 10 or 15 min until I was told not to. The USB→TTL adapter was a little warm when I disconnected it. Now I wonder if I damaged the washing machine port because when I meter the 0v against the 5v, there is almost nothing there. Did I damage it, or did the manufacturer disable the serial port before it got to me?

[–] residentoflaniakea@discuss.tchncs.de 2 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Hard to say, but if the 5V natively to the machine is shot, I'd expect the unit to not work as its systems would depend on it. I assume you measured 5V in reference to the machines GND. Double check your meter against a known good 5V supply (your adapter).

[–] diyrebel@lemmy.dbzer0.com 1 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago)

I assume you measured 5V in reference to the machines GND.

Indeed. It was in fact the 0v pin on the washing machine that is next to the RX pin.

When I meter gnd against 5v on the adapter, I get 5.15v. So both the adapter and the DMM are fine.

I heard that connecting two DC supplies together would have no problem if they both output exactly the same voltage. Of course we would never have an exact match, but the only strain on either side of the connection would be from the difference between the 5v from the adapter and 5v from the washing machine.

So I’m tempted to conclude no damage was done and the serial port was sabotaged at the factory.

[–] perestroika@slrpnk.net 4 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

You don't need to connect the 5V pins. An ordinary serial connection has no power pins.

The rest of your description seems sound.