3DPrinting
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Could you set the speed in the slicer instead of Klipper?
I could, but the entire purpose of what I'm doing is to avoid having any material-specific settings set in the slicer, so that re-slicing between filaments isn't necessary.
I actually got this working last night, I had to learn a lot about how variables work but it works like a charm:
Slicer names a variable for layer height in the start gcode of every print
cfg file for each filament contains a max volumetric flow for that filament/nozzle
a macro takes these values and the layer height and finds a max speed for the given parameters
a second macro assigns this value to the "speed factor" percentage
print speed in slicer is set to 100mm/s, travel speed is set to 9999mm/s; say the equation limits my speed to 55mm/s, it sets speed factor to 55%, now moves with extrusion will be 55mm/s (travel will be 5500mm/s but limited to 500mm/s by printer's max speed)
All other filament/nozzle settings were really easy to bake into the cfg file, there's just no official Klipper support for a max volumetric flow so I had to jank this system together.
Glad to hear you got it working!
Do you often need to print the same file in significantly different materials with the exact same settings in support, infill type/percentage, wall thickness, rafts etc.? If I want to print something in e.g. PLA and ASA, I need fairly different slicer settings that would require re-slicing anyway.
The only thing you mentioned that I would ever need to change between materials is supports, and I very rarely need to print anything with supports. Theoretically it makes sense to reslice for walls and infill so you can make thinner/ lighter models if the material is stronger, but I'd prefer the ease of switching to a perfectly dialed in profile over the occasional savings in material.
The only thing that really needs anything special from the slicer in my experience is PETG with it's funky bridging, everything else can be ignored if you have your material settings perfect. I'm getting much better quality prints with these quick profile swaps than I was quickly re-slicing things with mostly-good settings.
Fair enough, I've found that properly tuned material settings work best for my setup WRTG consistent quality.
Yup exactly, I was being lazy previously and if the settings (ie retraction, flow, pressure advance etc) were "close enough" I wouldn't bother re-slicing, would just reprint and accept the good-enough quality. Now, no need to re-slice, and I get the spot-on material settings I've calibrated