3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
view the rest of the comments
This is my thinking as well, but I've got zero other ideas.
I've already cut the wires on my heat cart and thermistors, so swapping those parts around is easy.
I've seen printers with a PCB on the hotend, but I'm not sure I understand what it is that the PCB does; is it simply a port hub between the main board and the hotend to make parts easier to swap out, or does it do any actual "thinking"? If it's the former, I think I've more or less accomplished this with the connectors. If it's that latter, I have no idea how I would go about configuring that to work with the SKR, but it would probably solve my problem by moving the "temp calculation" job off of the main board. It would at least tell me for certain if the board is what's reporting the incorrect temp.
The PCB doesn't do anything other than a compacted connector between components. Especially the surface mount component. Also, some devices can be more sensitive than others making it more prone to breaking during mishandling. If something on the pcb breaks (highly unlikely), then you can just solder using jumper wire (to some degree, high speed signals cannot be treated this way). However, if the component on the PCB is the one that breaks, then you can just replace that component with some careful solder works. But yes, sometimes replacing it will be easier than repairing
I use a version of Hartk's Stealthburner PCB on my voron and cludged an afterburner tool head onto my franken mk3s. They're both breakout PCBs, the stealthburner one to my knowledge is passthrough, afterburner one has a thermistor and led on it for chamber temps and a hotend activity led. Totally optional and what you've done already is probably the more frequent things I'd change anyhow. There are fancier tool head boards, they're effectively their own MCUs afaik that communicate via canbus, with those ones you're running very few wires, something I'm thinking about but haven't done yet
For me, they reduced the amount of wiring I needed to run to the hotend and make it super easy to swap components, as I said, I've damaged things unintentionally before (I'll say ADHD is contributing to that) so it's really handy. Keeps the wiring neater as well, or at least gives you a place to manage them.