3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
view the rest of the comments
You're thinking of calibrating the Z-offset. A heated nozzle would have no impact on auto bed leveling.
Also, you don't calibrate the Z-offset with a heated nozzle. Thermal expansion is the reason you use a piece of paper in between the nozzle and bed.
I have the bed and nozzle when calibrating z offset and bed tramming and auto bed leveling.
What's the correct way for each of those?
When you’re calibrating z-offset you’re noting the difference between the probe and the nozzle.
So for that you want the nozzle heated but not the bed. Not that it hurts to have the bed heated. It’s just not needed.
Because the way you get the z offset is to find the point where probe triggers… and then find where the nozzle touches that same point.
For bed tramming you’ll want the bed heated. Although unless it’s badly warped you can get by without it and ABL should account for that anyway. What you want here is for the nozzle to be the same distance from the bed when it moves over it.
Here’s a series of comments I made for someone who was fighting issues that you might find helpful. They’re running Klipper but the mechanical adjustment and concepts should be the same.
https://lemmy.world/comment/7904011
Feel free to ask if you have any questions. I suspect you’re dealing with mostly mechanical variations which is common enough without dealing with the QA lottery you get with some printers like the ender 3