3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
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I have no experience with your particular printer, but I've had an issue where the bed was very sensitive due to being the edge of the adjustment range.
The bed screws on the Ultimaker 2 are manual screws with springs, and you can level the bed throughout most of the screw length. Having it at one end means the spring is quite loose, and things like weight and nozzle pressure affected the flatness of the bed.
So if you have an elastic tensioner for your bed, maybe set it at higher tension for a more robust flatness?
If you're always adjusting in the same direction though, it's not that, and is probably a software error where something doesn't count Z-position right. Unless of course your printer is somehow getting longer?
The printer bed is non adjustable. It relies solely on auto bed leveling. I did a silicone base mod to actually adjust the bed and level it manually in addition to the abl. That is why I had such a great mesh loaded.